Saturday, April 10, 2010

Gujan Mestras and the seven Oyster Harbours

Larosse Harbour in Gujan Mestras

The Larosse Harbour in Gujan Mestras makes for a perfect postcard picture with the oyster farmers small boats and the little huts where you can taste fresh oysters with chilled white wine. Gujan Mestras has no less than seven harbours and stands for half of the Arcachon Bay's oysters.

I went there last spring with the children. We started with some play time on the Hume beach next to Gujan Mestras. The tide was low, so the sand stretched far out and the boats where tipped on the side. The air smells of sea! This just dry landscape is difficult to take pictures of, it is beautiful in a subtle way with shades of green and grey and beige...


View from Gujan Mestras

When we arrive at the Larosse Harbour, the questions from the children start pouring. Why are there so many boats? What is this, they say and point at the tiles painted white or at some strange plastic thing, like a stick with wings... The huts huddle together along the pier and several offer a simple service of fresh oysters.

Larosse is also the centre for pinasse construction. Pinasse is a long, sleek boat with a high front, ideal to pass in shallow waters but still resistant enough to take on the ocean waves at the opening of the bay. You can rent a pinasse with a captain or admire them at different competitions in the bay.

Pinasse, typical boat in the Arcachon Bay
Photo Wikipedia

We continue to the Oyster Museum, Maison de l'Huître, where you can learn all about oyster farming. Small but well thought, the visit starts with a film and then takes you through the different parts of the life of an oyster. It gives you answers to many questions you might have about tools you see in the harbour. Personally I was surprised to learn that it takes three years to grow an oyster and I was not aware of the amount of work it takes to do oyster farming. You only see the farmers at high tide, because at low tide they are out in the bay taking care of their oysters. I am preparing another post to tell you more about oyster farming!

In August you can participate in the Oyster Festival in Gujan Mestras. Five days with over 100 000 visitors, music, oyster tastings and a festive mood!

The ladybug is a symbol for Gujan Mestras. There used to be vast vineyards around the bay. When they were attacked by lice, the people blamed the ladybugs that came to eat the lice. The inhabitants of Gujan Mestras were called barbots, which mean ladybug in gascon language. Today the ladybug is seen on the city armour and other official decorations - and everybody knows that the lice were the culprits.

The seven harbours of Gujan Mestras are La Hume, Meyran, Gujan, Larosse, Barbotière, Mole and the canal. Hume has a very nice beach, shallow and perfect for children.

Presentation of Gujan Mestras in French and English.

Friday, April 9, 2010

They are or they have?

As a newly arrived foreigner in France, you pass through many small difficulties, some hard to imagine for those who have never tried to live outside their own country. One of my small challenges was to hear the difference between they are = ils sont and they have = ils ont.

When you say them, the first one gets a simple S from the word sont and the second one gets a toned S by binding together the two words that is pronounced as a Z.  I had major problems in hearing that difference!

Funny thing about this is that in Swedish we have the letter Z in our alphabet, but we seldom use it and pronounce it as S...  I felt like the Chinese that say L instead of R!

Now I hear the difference very clearly, in fact so clearly that it is difficult for me to understand how I ever could fail to hear this difference....

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Get Charmed by Bayonne, the Chocolate Capital


View of Bayonne and its cathedral

The charm of Bayonne is hard to resist and it is my favourite shopping place. You combine the rationals of shopping with the pleasures of winding streets, cafés and a beautiful setting by the Nive River. Maybe you know that Bayonne is famous for its ham? A little less known is that Bayonne also is the Capital of Chocolate in France. About one shop out of two has a shop window full of chocolate...

Bayonne chocolate

The Chocolate history of Bayonne started in 1496 when the Portuguese king threw out the Jews, who knew how to make chocolate. Several skilled Jewish chocolate makers found refuge in the Saint Esprit block in Bayonne and started chocolate shops. Today there is even a special Chocolate Festival every Ascension, with chocolate stands everywhere and free tastings...

Giant ham at the Bayonne Ham Festival

This time we walked into the Ham Festival! I was there with two friends, heading for some coffee and laughs, maybe a spring shopping bargain or two, and there we are with the  market place square completely full of stands with ham and sausages!

Sausages in Bayonne

A sausage snapshot. One for every taste ... perfumed with wild boar, donkey, goat cheese, plum, garlic...

Café at the Food Market square in Bayonne
City life on the market place square (les Halles)

The Cathedral in Bayonne
The Cathedral

Café on the Cathedral square
The square in front of the Cathedral

Old house front
Old house front

Typical narrow street in Bayonne
Winding street with typical basque fronts and a glimpse of the Cathedral

Fronts by the Nive River
Typical fronts of the houses next to the river.

Café at the theatre
This café has a very nice terrace by the Nive River, on the Place de la Liberté. The building is the theatre and has a more classic style.

 

Arcades in Bayonne
The arcades, not a very good picture, but I think they add to the charm of Bayonne. Pretty practical too if it rains!

Bus in Bayonne
The Navette takes you all around Bayonne for free! Smaller than a normal bus, to be able to get into those narrow streets.

Spring trees in Bayonne
A last picture in front of the Galeries Lafayette, where you see how the trees are covered in tiny light green leaves... bye Bayonne, see you again soon!

Maybe you can feel it from the pictures, that one of the special things about the Basque coast is that each place has its own soul. Biarritz is close to Bayonne, but very different. Anglet is also something else... and so on.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Easter in Paris

Eiffel Tower in Paris

This Easter weekend we went to Paris to visit my husband's brother and show Paris to our children. Paris, o Paris....

My first stay in Paris I was a student (studying at ENSAM and ESCP for those who know about French schools) and living in Cité Universitaire, a huge student area. I had a cosy room of 8m2 all for myself, with WC and shower in the corridor, in a building that was situated about 2 metres from the périphérique, the ring road around the centre of Paris. From my second floor I had an excellent view over the six lanes and quite some noise from the cars.
But that was OK. The heating pump was running at maximum capacity, creating a near tropical climate in some rooms, forcing my fellow students to strip to T-shirt and boxer shorts, while other rooms, like mine, were further along the pipes and received no heating at all. My room was a fridge and I routinely put on two thick sweaters when I entered. When I said I had never been so cold as in Paris, I wasn't joking. In spite of all that I still spent one of my best years as a student in Paris.

My next stay in Paris, a few years later, my living conditions significantly improved. I had a fancy job and a fancy apartment a block from the Eiffel Tower. I also fell in love with my husband to be. Since then, Paris will always have that rosy shimmer of happiness, a glow from those young years of no worries and much fun. Being in love in Paris is hard to beat.

There was a third stay, living in Rueil Malmaison, a posh suburb just outside Paris with a small child, but I am not sure it enters in the Paris category. Let me just say I think it was closer to the true experience of the Paris region that most Parisians live, being at the mercy of repeated transport strikes and relying on a nanny to get everyday life to function.

To me, Paris is a compulsory stop if you want to visit France, but do not believe that Paris is France.  Like for most countries, the capital has a life of its own, sometimes pretty far from the rest of the country. For worse or for better. Go there, but don't believe you know France because you know Paris!

This time we were not so lucky with the weather. Mostly rain for two days. It generally started to rain as soon as we stepped out of the car. But here you have some photos with little details that speak to me, little things that are different, of all the things I love about Paris.


Café at Palais Royal
I love the cafés. I love watching people, taking it easy, sipping a coffee. Essence of Paris for me.


Tourist posing in front of the Louvre Pyramid
Look at these tourist photographers and the people posing in front of the Louvre Pyramid. I have a hard time admitting that I am now one of these tourists that real Parisians look at with a sigh. Paris needs the tourists, but doesn't really love them. Nah.


Easter chocolate shop window
Everywhere chocolate shops and bakeries with exquisite, magnificient cakes for every taste. Daily temptations.

 Raspberry Charlotte cake
Just one example. The cake we had at my husband's brothers place. Raspberry charlotte with rabbit decoration.


Bikes for rent in Paris
This was new to me, all these bikes that you can rent. There were many bikers around, parents with young children - no one with a helmet of course. Special lanes for bikes.... I was impressed.


Street Mozart concert in Paris
I love this! Suddenly we turn a corner and there, on the pavement, a small orchestra playing Mozart. Culture is everywhere in Paris.


Best in Paris, the carrousel
Number one on the children's list of top ten in Paris. They do have the most beautiful carrousels, old style, they look like they are hand painted.


Porsche on rue Rivoli
I had forgotten how rich Paris is. Porsche is everywhere... and we saw many Cayenne, the Porsche version of a four wheel drive, which cost (at least) 100 000 euros. These cars are much more rare in my village...


Japanese restaurant Matsuri in Paris
A Japanese restaurant called Matsuri where the food is put on small plates on a transport band. You pick any plate that looks nice and pay according to the number of plates you have taken. The children loved the idea, but finally few of the dishes where to their taste.


Transparent waste bin in Paris
I remember when these transparent waste bins came for the first time, to avoid terrorists to put bombs in there. Now they are still there - still because of bomb threats? Or maybe just practical?


Colonnes de Buren in Paris
Love the contrast of this striped decoration at a the Palais Royal. It is called Colonnes de Buren. 


Ornate balcony

Statues around a window

Golden angel
Some examples of archtectural details that add to the charm and beauty of Paris. The ornate balcony, the statues around a window, a golden angel. Look out and you'll see things that this everywhere!


The Louvre Pyramid
Finally, another contrast I love. The Louvre and the Pyramid. Old and new, living together.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Moliets, our Beach

Moliets is our favourite beach.

Amazing Moliets beach

Since the outflow of the Courant d'Huchet runs freely, it overflows on the beach every year, which has made the Moliets beach the largest one along the whole coast.

The only problem is that once we're here, the children never want to go home.

Children dancing on Moliets beach

Saturday, April 3, 2010

The Easter Bells come with Chocolate Eggs

Happy Easter! Here in France the children will go out in the garden to look for chocolate eggs. The Bells - les Cloches - have left them there. Don't ask me about the story behind it.... well, according to Wikipedia, the bells are silent and mourning since Thursday, then they go to Rome and coming back they bring the eggs and spread them out. Strange tradition!

Easter chocolate eggs
Photo Wikipedia

In Sweden the children get loads of candy in fancy decorated eggs made of carton. Then we paint real eggs and use feathers to decorate branches of trees.

This weekend we are going to Paris to see my husband's brother. Maybe I will share a few photos from the City of Lights when I come back...

Friday, April 2, 2010

Anais sings J'sais pas

Excellent song by Anais is J'sais pas, where she discusses a guy she just met and if he is interested or not. As she speaks, burglars empty her apartment, but she is too preoccupied to notice.



Another great song is Mon coeur, mon amour where she teases the couples that are too silly with sweet little words and calling each other twelve times a day. She hates them, because they make her feel even more lonely.


Mon coeur, mon amour
 
ban nha mat pho ha noi bán nhà mặt phố hà nội